Denmark

There is of course a rational explanation to this but, for a second, let's just indulge in the weirdness of this morning's anecdote. So, there's a lot of trash lining the streets here. This morning, tired as can be, my head hung down while I walked to work, surveying the ground instead of the surroundings. I started looking at the trash only to realize that a vast majority of all the trashed paper lining the street (mind you, this is a 15 minute walk) is all old Danish newspaper-clippings???? What the hell? It's not like just one little clipping, outside the DANIDA-building or something like that. This is in a completely different part of town, on many different streets, and there are a lot of them too. Strange? Yes.

"That's interesting Marcus, but can we please have a history lesson on Liberia's fascinating past?"

Shit, why not. Check it:

Cape Mesurado (Greater Monrovia) was “purchased” from African chiefs by the American Colonization Society, and Liberia, intended as a homestead for freed American slaves, was founded in 1822. In the years prior, the American abolitionist-movement had begun to gain some momentum in American politics. Since most were basically still racist to some extent (no need to split hairs) there was little room in for co-existence in their vision of post-slavery America . Slaves should be freed and then sent to their “home” – Africa.

The number of slaves that finally made their way to Liberia was relatively small. By 1900, 15,000 American slaves and 300 Caribbean had settled in a couple of settlements on the cost. They became the de facto elite of the country, with a decidedly American outlook rather than an African one. They wore a Western mode of dress, built American-styled houses, preferred American food, owned land privately as opposed to communally, etc.. They were, in other words, a decidedly foreign presence. The power of the settler community – the Americo-Liberians – was bolstered by a number of factors: 1) capital from the ACS; 2) a missionary zeal to civilize their African brethren; 3) military aid by American officers; 4) fear of French and British incursions, which made all the African chiefs sign treaties of amity and commerce with the Liberian governor, effectively annexing themselves to the coastal state. The Liberian Government, in other words, became the “protector” of the tribes of the interiors by similar tactics as the European powers – coercion, exploitative relationships disguised as incentives, intervention in local power struggles, purchases with goods of questionable worth and quality, and a culture that painted African culture as inferior. It would not be wrong, then, to speak of a Black Imperialism at play.

I don’t mean to write this as if it is breaking news or to bore you, I just wanted to point to a division that still exists in Liberia and is pretty damn obvious. The Americo-Liberians are the clear elite here in the country and other tribes play second fiddle. It’s the unspoken issue here and anyone who dares to mention it gets hushed with references to Rwanda’s genocide. The more American your accent is, the more American your fashion is, the more American your name, the higher up you are on the social latter, roughly. This is despite the fact that the Americo-Liberians are a 5% minority. It has been really obvious during the consultation sessions I’ve sat in on so far. All the ministers, practically, are Americo-Liberians, educated in the West. Other tribes (Vai, Mende, Mandingo (muslim traders), Kpelle, Mano, Loma, Kissi and Bella) are sidelined.

Their influence is rivaled only by the Lebanese. Almost all the bigger shops, restaurants, intact residential buildings, and hotels are Lebanese-owned. They cater to the UN-people and are basically here to make a killing and then move back to Lebanon and build their life there. They are not allowed to become citizens (according to the constitution only Blacks can become citizens) and therefore have little invested in the local community other than profit. A really unfortunate arrangement. There was tons of talk during the civil society consultation of 'Liberializing' businesses = not a great idea. I hear what they're saying though, it's frankly quite an eyesore that all quality establishments are owned by Lebanese dudes that have all these blacks running around at their beck and call.

Christ, I sound like a tool here above. Please note, I'm still the fresh Marcus you all know and love, just figured I'd drop some knowledge on you fools for good measure.

I went to a "party" the other night. They all take place at various compounds around the city, i.e. gated communities surrounded by slums. This one was at the EC (European Commission) one and was quite alright. Free beer, "world music" on the speakers, mixed crowd, Kente-clothed Germans, beefcake Lebanese, Americans in cowboy hats celebrating memorial day, etc. It's funny because some expats have clearly found their niche here as the "cool" people. You notice how unused but comfortable they are in this role. It's vaguely reminiscient of meeting the quiet introvert in your junior high class outside of the school setting; chilling with some new friends, acting despondant in all his 'in-crowd' dungeons-and-dragons hipness. Typical example: You'll be sitting at a table with some people and a new person sits down. He/she asks "so what do you do here?" and you'll reply "I'm working for UNDP...how about you, do you work for the UN too?" at which point get interrupted by someone at the table laughing their ass of at you: "aaahahahahahaha, oh my god, eeeeh.....she's basically the furthest away from UN you could possibly get, ahhahaha."

Ok dude...next time I'll be sure to cast an uncloaking spell at her druid amulet and maybe that way get a few knowledge points. Problem is I have serious lack of agility-herbs right now so I may have to go back to the inn and purchase some more potions...

Morons! Now, I'm not saying I'm the coolest thing in the book here but hopefully you see my issue. Socially, this looks like it will be a summer of compromises. I will keep an open mind but so far it looks like I won't come out of this thing with that many "friends for life". That's what you guys are for. By the way, I consider those who write in the guestbook to be my only friends, everyone else can get the gasface. So far these are my friends: My dad, my sister, my grandparents, Lewis, Samuel and Martin S.

Now, I gosta work. Keep loving